Dear Editor,
When I left Guyana for Canada, I never dreamed that it would take me almost 30 years before setting my feet back on Guyanese soil. As a teenager, my departure from Georgetown in the early seventies, was focused mainly on completing my education, building a career and supporting my less fortunate relatives. During this time, the opportunity arose on several occasions to return to Guyana, but the ongoing uneasiness there created hesitation on my part. Also, all of my siblings are now based in other parts of the world, thus limiting my contact with the way of life in Guyana. However, during these decades of my life in a French environment (Quebec), I tried as much as possible to remain in touch with the activities within the country.
Being the offspring of a Venezuelan/ Guyanese couple, I was fortunate to gain an insight into two cultures, yet the period of primary and most of my secondary school years in Georgetown impacted very much on my development as an adult.
During the last week of June, five of us boarded an Air Transat plane bound for Guyana. It was amazing to note that in spite of the sporadic disturbances which we had gotten accustomed to hearing about, this flight consisted mainly of Canadian Guyanese wanting to vacation in their homeland. These folks from various races were quite friendly and I think politics and disturbances were the last things on their minds. Passing through Customs and Immigration at Cheddi Jagan Airport was no different from arriving in any other Caribbean or Latin American country – hot temperatures and slow service! This waiting period allowed me to reflect on my departure from this airport 30 years ago and my return as a middle-aged established adult. Our initial destination was the West Coast of Berbice so we only passed through Georgetown on the way there. It was surprising to see how small the streets were (comparing them with Toronto where I now reside) and how the buildings had deteriorated. Leaving Georgetown decades ago, my memory was vague and it took me a while to remember my surroundings. By the time I became more familiar, we were already in Kitty and on the way to Berbice.
Having never visited Berbice, I felt like a tourist and fully enjoyed the scenery on the route. We stayed on the West Coast of Berbice for a couple of days, which unfortunately, was not enough time to really see the area. However, we found the people very amicable and receptive. Here, I had my first taste of a rooster ‘alarm clock,’ no batteries or AC required, waking me up at 5am! While in this part of Guyana, we were happy to see Guyanese from all walks of life living peacefully in the same communities.
After the 2 days, we embarked on the trip to our main destination within the Essequibo town of Charity at the side of the Pomeroon River. Again, we only passed through Georgetown quite rapidly and headed across the floating bridge on the Demerara River. This was new to me as the only way to cross over when I left Georgetown was via speedboats and ferries. I found the roads to be better than the ones in Berbice and really enjoyed the sightseeing along the way. Arriving at Parika was another experience as there were so many baggage handlers vying for our business that it got uneasy at times. Yet, I must say that this was due to everyone trying to make a living. After finally getting our luggage into a small speedboat, we had a 45 minute boat ride to Supenaam, from where we travelled to Charity. My mom had mentioned that we had visited the Pomeroon area when I was four years old, so after 40 plus years this was totally new to me. Being city bred, I was overwhelmed by the countryside atmosphere and the friendly people of all races there.
Thus, I began a visit of 11unforgettable days within the easygoing, loveable, peaceful and beautiful atmosphere of this Essequibo region. At every house we visited, the open arms and ‘my house is your house’ treatment demonstrated to us that Guyanese are a very welcoming and accommodating people, especially to strangers. Waking up early in the morning (5am with the roosters) was not that appealing but the fresh air, chickens, ducks, coconut water, mangoes, boat rides, swimming in the river, friendly people, etc, more than made up for that.
During our time in Charity, we passed a very pleasant day at the Mainstay Resort, went on a ferry excursion and enjoyed a bush cook at a beach front on the Atlantic ocean bordering the Pomeroon River. Noted places to mention would be the Purpleheart and Xenon nightclubs, where we met Guyanese of all races. Who says that Guyanese cannot party, as the latest music and fashions have found their way down to the Essequibo coast! Naturally, the beauty of Guyanese women is ever present there.
Market day, Monday, was the main busy day in Charity and it was a splendid sight to see so many vendors vying for sales from customers. Although, as tourists, we received our share of stares, at no time did we feel threatened and instead felt at home amongst the people shopping. As traffic is centred around the river, speedboats and canoes are continuously on the go to the market landings. From my in-laws, I received treatment fit for royalty. Our difference in cultures was unnoticeable as they went out of their way to make me feel at home. They, like the others folks in Charity, work hard for their living yet they are so pleasant and receptive, while being thankful for their way of life. When we had to leave, I was torn between heading back to my modern technology lifestyle in Toronto or remaining in this peaceful and quiet atmosphere in Essequibo. The friendships I have gained and the pleasant memories of wonderful people will keep me going until my next trip (next year). Guess I already know where I would like to be when I retire.
Before heading back home, we had the opportunity to spend one enjoyable evening at the Prairie International Hotel, about 15 minutes away from the airport. The meals, service, accommodation and exterior sights, including a deck on to the Demerara River are worth mentioning. I can only hope and pray that there is improvement on the political side so that Guyana can develop and truly become one people, one nation and one destiny.
Today, I look back and regret not visiting my homeland earlier, but as they say, it’s better late than never. A bonus while there was finding my mom’s sister, whom she hadn’t seen in over 40 years, living within this same Charity area. To the remaining Guyanese who have yet to return home, try to do so soon and I only hope that you will get the opportunity to visit Essequibo while there. To you, Charity folks, thanks for making my stay so pleasant. You do very well as ambassadors of Guyanese good will towards fellow men.
Yours faithfully,
Keith Hernandez,
Toronto, Canada
