Port Kaituma

Story and photos by Zoisa Fraser

As night steps in, Port Kaituma (PK) Central comes alive as miners and residents converge after a hard day’s work to relax, share news, party, eat and drink. The sound of popular music can be heard until the wee hours of the morning and the aroma of fried fish, chicken and other dishes linger sometimes until the crack of dawn.

PK, often described as the gateway to the North West District, is divided into several sections, and residents who do not own their own land cruisers and ATVs are forced to either walk long distances or hire a taxi for nothing less than a $1000 for short drops.

A breathtaking view in which all the schools of PK can be seen.

Residents say that life in this interior community is good, although a bit fast paced when compared to the city. Despite having to contest with poor roads and in some instances less than acceptable living and health standards, many prefer to live here as their earnings are higher when compared to those of the average coastlander.

Being a shopkeeper and selling cooked food, are the next most popular occupations in PK after mining. At nights, the slushy streets are lined with stands where fish, chicken, fries and other foods are prepared.

Women and in a few cases men are seen flouring the already seasoned meat and chicken and slowly lowering them in pans of hot cooking oil as many gather, waiting for their order. Fish with fried plaintain chips is the favourite.


Damian Vivirous and his family prepare to leave their One Mile home for an
outing in PK Central.

Clothing and shoes are in abundance in PK Central, which is the area’s main shopping district. In one section there are stalls on both sides of the roadways packed with goods. One can find anything from slippers to long boots to t-shirts and underwear. The only real bother is the price. Expect to pay at least double the price, as compared to the coastland, for any item purchased in this North West community.

There is a market too where fruits and vegetables are sold. Every fourth night a streamer docks at the wharf loaded with goods from Georgetown.

There have been several complaints from residents that persons would travel to the area from Georgetown and set up stalls along the wharf which impacts negatively on those selling in the market. The prices at the wharf are much cheaper than those of the established businesses.


The one mile catwalk that links PK Central and Oronoque.

There is an abundance of hotels and restaurants in the busy shopping district. During the day there is less activity as many would have journeyed to various backdam areas in search of gold.

There are schools, a police station, hospital and a morgue in the community, but there are instances where residents have to travel for miles in less than ideal conditions to access these services.

Sixty-six year old Ivy John said that she relocated to the community many years ago from Yarakita in the Mabaruma Sub-region, which lacked employment opportunities. The woman told this newspaper that she had just received treatment at the Port Kaituma hospital which is falling into a state of disrepair. She said that on each visit she had there, however, there was always a doctor on duty.


The one mile catwalk that links PK Central and Oronoque.

John who lives at Turn Basin, PK, said that she is forced to walk on the slushy roads to the medical facility because she cannot afford to pay the $1000 taxi fare. She lives a short distance from the hospital but because of the state of the roads in the area, the fare has gone up. In some sections the potholes are so large a small child could swim inside.

The woman said that she receives her pension on time at the Post Office in the central part of the community.

She called on residents to make efforts to plant vegetables and other foods as this will greatly reduce the impact some feel when they have to buy vegetables to cook.

Another PK resident, Suzie (only name given) said that she prefers to take her one-year-old son to the private hospital in the community since she receives better treatment there. She explained that at times, the public hospital does not have the medication that the child needs.

Little Leyounda Lowe eats a snack at Oronoque

Besides the central area and Turn Basin, places such as Fitzburg and Coconut Grove can be accessed easily. Beyond that are the One, Two, Three and Four Miles stretch along the public road. The community ends at the latter location.

When travelling to PK one has two options: by air or river. The riverain journey is tiring as hours are spent on the water top from Charity on the Essequibo Coast. It is also very expensive to travel by river if one is not going to use the North West Ferry, the MV Lady Northcote. Most residents and visitors opt to travel by air as it is quicker and less costly.

One boards an aircraft at the Ogle airport and after one hour of flying one touches down at the Port Kaituma airstrip. After disembarking from the plane passengers collect their baggage and the police unit at the airstrip records the names of those visiting. It is about a 15 minute drive from the airstrip to PK Central.

Oronoque


A resident jumping over the slush on the road. Cars in the background are driving carefully.

Located a short and sometimes dangerous walk from PK Central is Oronoque, the home of the electrical power plant that supplies electricity to the areas main business area. The plant was installed in the area last year in the lead-up to the general and regional elections.

Home to about 100 persons, Oronoque lacks basic facilities and infrastructure. Though the power plant is located there, residents do not receive electricity nor do they receive potable water. To get home from central Port Kaituma, they walk long distances.

Getting to Oronoque can be a scary experience for anyone. One has to walk on a two-mile long catwalk made out of wood, some sections of which are clearly rotting. The catwalk, which was built by Barama Company Limited years ago, is located in a swampy area and as a result residents have little choice but to use it. There have been instances where persons including a pregnant woman fell through holes in the structure and sustained injuries. Residents told this newspaper that children use the wooden walkway every day to go to school. PK Central has a nursery, primary and secondary school.


Suzie and her one year old son at the hospital.

This little boy takes a walk in Oronoque. The truck in the background is the most popular mode of transportation to the backdam areas.