Endeavour, Leguan

Anita Sankar’s daughter, Kelly, purchasing a chicken patty from the pastry vendor

Endeavour is on the eastern end of the island of Leguan in the Essequibo River and home to less than 200 residents, most of whom farm for a living.

To get to Leguan once you arrive at Parika, you could either use the ferry, MV Makouria, or take a speedboat, which gets you to the island in 15 minutes. I chose the latter and found myself seated next to a worker employed on the Makouria, who had missed the vessel by half an hour. The speedboat had no shed, so the operator gave each passenger a piece of leatherette to cover with, which we held tightly in our hands, to protect us from the fury of the Essequibo pelting in at us. Over the noise of the outboard engine, the Makouria worker loudly explained that