These columns deal primarily with companion animals. Counsel on domestic livestock can be had by writing to us seeking the relevant advice. I am saying this because tapeworms – as was mentioned during the first article on tapeworms (21.1.07) – can be found in cattle, pigs, and in fact, in practically all mammals.
However, the control of tapeworms in dogs is pretty much specific, but straightforward.
You may recall that fleas were the intermediary host in the canine/feline tapeworm cycle. It follows, therefore, that if we keep down the flea population on the premises and/or we ensure that no flea resides on the dog/cat, then these animals won’t be infected with tapeworms. We must eliminate the fleas from the dog and from the surrounding area.
Sanitizing the premises
Keeping the environment clear of fleas and tapeworm eggs is easier said than done. But we must make the effort – if we love our pets enough.
Firstly, it may be necessary to burn the infected bedding in the dog’s kennel or the cat’s sleeping quarters. Then ensure that the kennel and immediate surroundings are physically scrubbed clean using one of the local sanitizers at a concentrated strength.
Sprinkling Sevin powder (no stronger than five per cent) in the surroundings, including the kennel and the pet’s predilection spots would help. Don’t worry too much if pet’s coat collects some of the powder.
If the dog is kept indoors, then we have a real problem. You can be sure that the fleas’ eggs are especially in the carpet and in the fibres of the sofa coverings, also in the niches and cracks and crevices of the floor. I really don’t think that vacuuming the cushions and the Berbice chair will help. Your best bet would be to call in the professionals, who would be best advised to ‘gas bomb’ your house. I know that this sounds horrific, even unacceptable. But really you have not much choice. Anyway, it was you who opted to keep your dog indoors in the first place. You should have followed my advice and ensured that the dog was totally insect and worm free before bringing it indoors. I should mention that you could use dusts and sprays on the furniture and carpets and floors. That would help, but obviously you will not be able to get all the holes and corners where the fleas’ eggs will be lying and waiting. I must also mention that all precautions must be taken to ensure the safety of your pets when you or the professional insect fighter decide to effect an all-out attack against the fleas. We don’t want the pets to die together with the fleas – you know, mission accomplished: fleas eradicated, dog dead.
Keeping the dog flea-free
This would entail administering flea killers to the animals. The following would represent the methods which could be used with varying degrees of success:
i) Anti-flea collar
The important thing to consider here is the expiry date of the chemically impregnated strip. Bear in mind that once the flea collar is out of the packet and on the dog, it is exposed to sunlight and humidity and to the elements in general. Also, please be careful that the active ingredient in the flea collar is not the same as the chemical in the dewormer that you use. This cumulative effect could be inimical to the health of your dog/cat.
ii) Anti-flea shampoos
There are many of these insecticidal shampoos on the market. If used correctly, they all work. My preference is the Pyrethrin-based shampoo. Pyrethrins are chemicals extracted from the plants, therefore a more natural product. These shampoos can be used on puppies and kittens. The organo-phosphate shampoos are potent against fleas. However, if you use them incorrectly, your animal could show symptoms associated with poisoning. To shampoo a cat is a problem. Cats don’t like baths, and one should not be bathing a dog too much either.
iii) Anti-flea sprays
These too work well, but are relatively expensive. In any case, it is difficult for the active ingredient in the spray to penetrate to the dog’s skin, if we are dealing with a long-haired pooch. And, of course, there is always the consideration of using a spray, the propellant of which is unfriendly to the environment. Many propellants contained in sprays help to destroy the ozone layer.
iv) Anti-flea powders
Again, these are pretty efficient. They are usually organo-phosphates, like Sevin powder. Do not use Sevin powder with a greater than five per cent strength. Also, don’t overdo the dog. Dust on the powder lightly.
As the fleas try to escape the powder they want to burrow into the skin and therefore create an itch. The dog/cat tries to dislodge the insect with its teeth, and can consequently pick up the powder orally. Also, as the dog/cat scratches its skin, lesions are created which allow the active ingredient to be absorbed easily into the bloodstream. Look out for toxic symptoms! I usually advise pet owners to leave on the powder for 30 minutes, then dust it off.
Next week, we’ll deal with the treatment of the tapeworm.
Please implement disease preventative measures (vaccinations, routine dewormings, monthly anti-heartworm medication, etc) and adopt-a-pet from the GSPCA’s Animal Clinic and Shelter at Robb Street and Orange Walk, if you have the wherewithal to care well for the animals. Do not stray your unwanted pets, take them to the GSPCA Clinic and Shelter instead. If you see anyone being cruel to an animal, get in touch with the Clinic and Shelter by calling 226-4237.
