Maybe nothing was in the air yet for some reason I kept thinking that Vienna’s air was different; it was certainly fresh.  The crisp air was the first thing I drew in as I stepped outside of the terminal and into a city I knew existed but had no impressions of.  If any first impressions were to be had by then it came from the grueling plane ride (almost 8 hours!) tucked in on a plane seat. In-flight service can be either good or bad—there are rarely gray areas—and Austrian Airlines certainly seems to have gotten the memo on how to treat its passengers. Between the palatable meals, the comfortable seats and the attentive service, there was little if anything to complain about.

My first stop was the Kaiser-Wasser Hotel. I wondered how far that was and whether

I could get there without any hassle. I was initially reluctant to approach anyone. I was going to be there for the next two weeks to attend the XVIII International AIDS Conference.  Why didn’t I take the little German handbook that was being loaned to me for my visit?

“First time right? Would you like me to take a photo of you?” a voice said from behind me. I looked around and discovered the smiling face of an agreeable man. I shook my head then thought there could be no harm in it so I allowed him to take the photo. It was not one of my best, simply because I was tired, hungry and a bit skeptical. In the end, my friendly photographer turned out to be extremely helpful since his destination was just opposite my hotel.

The Austrian capital boasts rich architecture that is both modern and classical in feeling and appeal. The metropolis was a canvas of subway lines, museums, shopping strips, historical and modern buildings and many cafes and restaurants. The incredibly clean streets were a notable feature—even the wind appeared vexed at twigs and leaves sparsely scattered on some sidewalks.

Any city that can boast of mountain spring water from the tap sounds like a great place to live and/or visit and Vienna’s tap water was safe to drink. I was initially skeptical about the declaration but it was difficult to hold on to doubt when you kept running into people on the streets who were drinking from fountains and/ or filling up a bottle to go. When you taste the water all doubts fade so the tap turned out to be my daily hydration source.

Vienna’s sprawling skyline, bustling streets and warm weather instantly captivated me. Luckily it was hot during my visit. Before the conference, I walked around in leggings and a blouse whenever I went out. In the evenings I managed just fine with a blouse and jeans. Some nights it rained and those were memorable because the city was less crowded and quiet; it was a great time to be outside and taking in the rain-soaked scent of the streets.

I rode the subway constantly, ignoring the buses and trams which were also very visible. It was easier to navigate and less confusing. It was also a window into the lives of the people who used it. I sat on the train a few times and observed people’s attitudes, mannerisms and got a taste of Vienna’s hospitality as well. Not once did I miss a stop or get lost. In fact, I even ended up playing tour guide to a group of visiting Africans who were also in the city for the conference.

Everyone had an idea as to where I could visit and that was a problem—unlimited ideas but limited financial resources. Salzburg, Austria was one of the locations where the “Sound of Music” was shot but to visit there from where I was meant a sizeable portion of my per diem so that idea was scrapped. I eventually decided on a few museums and the famous St. Stephen’s Cathedral (Stephansdom). There were no regrets. The cathedral drew hundreds on the day I visited. It was free to walk inside and spent some quiet time alone or to sight-see but there were restrictions and you could only get so far without paying a €20 fee. A friend and I settled on the incomplete tour and it turned out to be quite an experience.

The food in Vienna was not what I was accustomed to. Rice was not a staple and I settled on baked and or mashed potatoes whenever I could not find it. I tried veal and it was great but I largely stuck to the chicken dishes. One meal nearly ruined my trip; I am not allergic to prawns but I found myself at the hospital with bruised, swollen lips, what I believe was a reaction to something in the food. Unfortunately, the recovery process was a week-long but I still managed to enjoy the food and especially the desserts, which were usually the best part of the meals. I loved it all and particularly the cheesecakes and the chocolate surprises that people kept serving up. It also seemed like there was an ice-cream parlour at every corner. There was no resisting a cone so I had about ten during my stay. Vienna probably has the best desserts of any place and I say that because they are pretty creative with it.

I remember walking the streets and looking around to find homeless people but I might have missed them because I saw none. There were a few persons who looked “down and out” but even they appeared to have jobs. I got the impression that people were being taken care of whether it was through the provision of basic services and or through other government-related programmes. The quality of life was enviable and I was not the only visitor in the city at that time who felt that way. I recall a man from Canada openly stating that he rated Vienna among the best cities in the world.