“I born and grow here. My great-great-grandfather is the founder of this place,” Samuel Bernard says with some amount of pride.  The “place” he refers to is St Cuthbert’s Mission, the lone Amerindian settlement in Region 4 (Demerara/Mahaica). Located along the Mahaica River, it has about 200 households with a population of just under 1600 people.

At 77, Samuel has an excellent memory and clearly sees himself as the village historian.  His great-great-grandfather was Joseph Ferguson, who happened to be the first toshao. Samuel is able to easily recall in chronological order all the toshaos that have headed the village council.

Sitting on the steps of one of the two houses he owns (residents don’t pay for land in the community), Samuel recounts life in the…..