263. We soon reached Bartika Grove again, but left it by next morning in spite of the entreaties of brave Bernau, who wanted us to stay a few days longer. As the schooner had not yet taken in her cargo, we accepted most cordially and gratefully our countryman’s offer to get us to Zeelandia in his own boat and with the aid of his youthful but expert paddlers. With heartiest good wishes for a successful journey to the Orinoco, and the promise on our part to spend a few days with him on our return down the Cuyuni, as was my brother’s intention, we left the Mission and its friendly inmates.
264. The strength of the ebb that had now set in, as well as the strenuous and skilled help of our indefatigable crew, let the boat skim over the waves as swiftly as an arrow, while with lively interest I watched the youngish paddlers whose eyes and ears kept ever on the alert to see the smallest object, to hear the slightest noise. In spite of the rapidity with which we sped, they nevertheless noted every fish that was swimming down there in the water round and about the boat, as well as every bird that the close branches of the trees along the banks were hiding, and if they heard the note of such a feathered creature, or the cry of some mammal in the forest, I immediately learnt the name of the guilty party. One could tell at once the new inmates who only recently had been received in the Institution by the deep melancholy which was inwardly awakened by these scenes and stamped a definite mark upon their faces. The remembrance of their forests, of their free unfettered life, the recollection of the playing-grounds for their childish sports, had chased away every smile, every sign of life from their boyish features. Taciturn and self-centred there they sat in front of us : they certainly cast their languishing gaze at the objects that were arousing their companions’ interest – but not a sound passed their lips – and in silence they continued to paddle on. Although the majority are quite conversant with the English language they nevertheless prefer to seize the opportunity of conversing in their mother-tongue, for which reason the members of one and the same tribe at the institution always keep together as much as possible.
265. As the sun was already beginning to slip behind the tree-tops and some houses were noticed along the bank, we determined on putting in there for the night. We were received on landing with the tempestuous howl of several dogs that fairly threatened to tear us to pieces. The less satisfied we were with their overtures the more gratified were we over the friendly welcome of the dear young coloured woman who immediately gave up her sitting-room for us to sling our hammocks in. The husband was a boat builder and the workshop therefore the best camp for our crew who were especially delighted because my brother had promised to reward them for their strenuous exertions with the ham that was still left amongst the provisions brought from Georgetown. He accordingly sent one of the boys down to the boat to fetch it from his servant. The boy took the opportunity of bringing, in addition to the ham, some bread and rice, and at the same time his own hammock which, when he got near the shed, he thought it wiser to sling before the others had time to pick the best places. He therefore put the ham on a piece of timber and tied the hammock. This done, he proposed carrying out his orders, but what he looked for had disappeared: the servant following him of course must have taken the ham to the cook – the only consolation that was left him. But the latter had done no such thing:- the ham and bread were gone, and the rice split on the ground, showing clearly enough that the dogs, now quiet, had just devoured it. How mad both we and the boys were can well be imagined! In spite of their mistress calling them, and notwithstanding every search of the disappointed lads who gladly would have saved at least a piece, the thieves were neither to be brought back, nor discovered. In the course of half an hour the brutes returned, licking their greasy snouts. The thieving instinct of the Indian dogs is greater by far than that of our cats: the meat in the cooking pots, indeed the whole pot on the fire is not safe from them, and only the most extreme caution saves anything eatable from their lust for theft, as we subsequently learnt on many an occasion by experience.
266. The dainty dish had disappeared and rice boiled in water had to take its place: owing to the young woman being kept on such short commons that she was unable in the morning to give us a single piece of cassava for the journey, we had to resume our voyage with empty stomachs, but yet with the certainty of finding along the bank during the course of the day a store kept by a coloured man who dealt in bread and provisions.
267. Comforted and consoled with this reflection we made a start – but as the hour went by when the healthy appetites of the boys were accustomed to be satisfied with breakfast, their strength and exertions also slackened. Yet however plainly their hunger manifested itself in their faces, not a complaint, not a murmur passed their lips. But what a shock when we reached the place we had depended on and the peevish store-keeper informed us that he had not a bite of bread in the house: The little bit of heart that so far had been left now indeed failed us, as was to be recognized only too clearly in the diminished progress of the boat. In addition to this, the weather had changed considerably for the worse, the Essequibo soon rising into such a state of commotion, that neither the boat nor the relaxed strength of the crew was a match for it. In these critical circumstances there still remained a solitary star of hope, the Mission Station of Caria-Caria situate on the left bank: this was run by Mr Peters, a coloured man who nevertheless was neither a clergyman nor real missionary. The renewed prospect of a square meal made the boys take heart again and the boat’s bow was quickly turned on her new course. We had not paddled far when we noticed a canoe ahead with which we soon caught up. It was paddled by two Indians who had come from the forest where they had been collecting fruit. I never however had seen so frail a vessel, the two naked individuals whose black hair hung down over their shoulders like cloaks must indeed have been very tired of life to have risked it in a nutshell so riddled with holes.
268. There is no need to describe how greedily the boys fixed their eyes on the Astrocaryum and Bactris fruits, and yet my brother hesitated before gratifying their covetous desires because the Indians would not part with any of their provisions except for spirits. After a long delay and before we had even spoken a word, the sad pleading looks that the youngsters exchanged from between the food and his eyes, to read in them what he intended doing finally prevailed, and a glass of rum received by each of the Indians brought a portion of the fruit into our boat. Though one found but little to still one’s hunger with, the thin fleshy envelope of the fruit was however gnawed by the boys and us with as much inward satisfaction as if we had had the best of roast beef in front of our expectant mouths. The opening of the Albany-cary (Abenacari) on which the station lies, was finally reached and we were about to spring ashore when an Indian woman, partly in a few English words, and partly in a much more intelligible dumb-show, because none of the boys understood Arawak, gave us to understand that there was just as little of Mr Peters here as there was bread. The last sparks of hope were now extinguished, and the boys’ countenances already naturally marked by a melancholy changed into that of absolute despair and found a striking reflex in our own, because we also were suffering the torments of nagging hunger, particularly aggravated in my own case, as the eating of the palm-fruits had made me vomit badly.
269. In spite of our pantomimic request there was nothing edible to be got out of the woman and we were forced th
erefore to continue our journey, but the sight of a boat that was rowing towards us soon recalled to life the hopes that were already moribund, and the shout of “Mr Peters” by one of the boys redoubled their strength. Mr Peters gave us the most friendly welcome, bid us turn our boat and accompany him to his place where a big basket of fresh cassava-bread and a large vessel of cooling lemonade soon made us forget our hours of hunger.
270. Whether the woman had misunderstood, or purposely wanted to deceive us, I don’t know – the satisfaction of gratifying our appetites did not permit of further enquiry into the matter: it was quite sufficient that a coloured baker lived here to supply us with plenty of bread. The Mission consisted of 40 houses and about 100 residents, partly coloured people, partly Arawak Indians, who out of their own funds had built quite a pretty chapel. Mr Peters belonged to one of the Dissenting bodies and therefore received no support from the Established Church. The Indians were all clothed and distinguished themselves to advantage from the coloured people, particularly in their beautiful long hair.
271. Still desirous of reaching Zeelandia today, we were only able to make a short stay at Caria-Caria. The boys were apparently exhausted, and as the lower portion of the estuary of the Essequibo required double strength, my brother considered it advisable to accept Mr Peter’s offer of taking his boat and letting the youngsters return to Bartika Grove. After giving full supplies of provisions to these nice boys, they returned to Bartika, and we to Zeelandia. It was indeed a stroke of luck that we had taken a larger boat and stronger pullers because towards evening the weather again became so boisterous that our former craft and paddlers would never have been able to stand it: even as it was, the violence of the waves, their fury still further increased by the rising flood, forced us to seek shelter on Truly Island at one of the coffee plantations where we were heartily welcomed. In spite of remonstrance our pullers returned to Caria-Caria during the night so as not to miss next day’s Divine Service, the manager supplying us with a boat and reliable crew on the following morning.
272. We landed all right at Zeelandia by mid-day, stayed here until the Thursday and then, in company with Mrs Arrindell and Miss Ross who wanted to spend a short time in the city, travelled in the estate’s schooner to Georgetown which we luckily reached by evening, so as now to complete all the preparations for the First Expedition to the estuary of the Orinoco, my brother having instructions to start his labours with the mapping of the western boundaries.
273. My brother had already engaged a portion of his boats’ crew during my stay at Zeelandia and now from day to day was awaiting the remainder from Essequibo. The large corial which the Expedition had purchased and christened “Victoria” bid fair to fulfil all the hopes which one had set upon her durability and lightness. Cut out of one single trunk it was 43 feet long, its breadth being considerably increased by the planking along its edge. All roads cease beyond the cultivated areas of the colony where the impenetrable virgin forest still keeps absolute sovereignty. Overland journeys across impassable swamps would be Quixotic, and so the rivers remain the only means whereby the traveller can make his way into the interior.
274. A second corial was still wanted but, not managing to buy any, my brother was forced to hire one. To maintain the strict discipline, the Governor appointed my brother a Magistrate until his return to Georgetown, so that he could punish by fine, forced labour, reduction of the daily rum, tobacco, or ration allowance, any subordinate disobeying his own written instructions or orders of the senior officers of the Expedition. The last-named punishment proved the most effectual for the negroes. After my brother had filled the number of his crew, I had a look around to get some assistance for myself: this I soon found in my old acquaintance, Stockle, the honest Wurtemberger. In addition, a few days later, I engaged a small sprightly lad who gave me to understand he belonged to Halle whence with his parents and two brothers he had come to Demerara before us: the poor people had previously worked on a coffee estate, from which however yellow fever had driven them to the city to earn their livelihood. The few days still remaining before taking our departure, I spent in teaching both my subservient geniuses Stockle and Florenz something about skinning birds and mammals, as well as preparing other objects.
275. Although the wages of these two very considerably reduced my fixed salary, which owing to my sickness, had already become a minus quantity, I could have barely carried out half my instructions without their assistance. As already mentioned Dr Echlin took the place of Walton the artist who had become homesick, while Mr Superintendent King who was in charge of the Barima and Waini Rivers District, received orders from the Governor to join us so that through his mediation my brother should be rendered every possible assistance on the part of the Indians.
